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The Jim Thompson House is a kind of local heritage museum, set amid beautiful gardens on the banks of the Saen Saeb Canal - a special sight, and not only for lovers of art and architecture. It is the Bangkok home and Asian art collection of the late James H.W. Thompson, also known as the "Silk King of Thailand".
Jim Thompson was an American businessman and designer who revolutionised the silk and textile industry. After being discharged from military service in 1946, he settled in Thailand. As early as 1948 he founded his own silk business; before then, Thai families had woven silk only for their own use.
Within just a few years, Jim Thompson succeeded in making Thai silk popular and selling it to renowned fashion houses around the world. He had a fine eye for good design and, with his creations, was well ahead of his time. He possessed an enormous knowledge of Southeast Asian art and was an enthusiastic collector of works of art. At the height of his career, in 1967, Jim Thompson vanished under mysterious circumstances in the jungle of Malaysia. His body was never found. Theories range from kidnapping and a faked death to murder. What do you think happened to Jim Thompson? The case remains unsolved to this day.
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During his lifetime, Mr Thompson entertained the city's rich and beautiful here almost every evening. Traditional Thai music played and guests enjoyed exotic cocktails on the veranda, overlooking the nearby canal.
On entering the rooms, you cannot help but notice the attention and care lavished on every detail of the decoration. Tapestries tell tales of bygone days, traditional Thai sofas invite you to rest, and chandeliers bathe it all in a mystical light. The dark tone of the wood stands in striking contrast to the green of the garden. With its four-metre-high ceilings and one open wall, the living room resembles a separate stilt house looking out over the canal.
In the entrance hall, the standing Buddha from the 17th century draws every eye. The shadows of the trees and a cleverly arranged lighting scheme show it off to particular effect.
Mr Thompson had an eye for treasures and loved to spend his free time at flea markets. On the upper floor is a series of decorative wall hangings that Jim Thompson acquired from various Buddhist temples. Exotic antiques from Thailand, Laos, Cambodia and Myanmar are brought back to life here.
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A sandstone image of Buddha guards the entrance to the kitchen. In the dining room, whose walls are made of teak, a two-part mahogany dining table is laid with a blue-and-white porcelain set. The rest of the room is adorned with more porcelain from the exquisite Benjarong collection.
The bedroom is another highlight, home to an antique mouse maze. In old China, a captive mouse would be watched, for entertainment, as it made its way through such labyrinths. The door that separates the sleeping and living areas was bought by Jim Thompson at a flea market in Chinatown; it once protected a pawnshop from unwelcome visitors.
A guide leads the tour through the house and explains the various exhibits as well as the house itself. It is important that guests remove their shoes so as not to damage the delicate wooden floor. Socks are provided.
The grounds have a souvenir shop selling silk and books, as well as a restaurant with a garden that serves traditional Thai food.
Across the way lies a Muslim quarter. Many of its residents worked as silk weavers for Jim Thompson and, to this day, remain very proud of their contribution to the silk company. Among them is Mr Nippon, who, together with his family, still produces silk in the traditional way.
The Jim Thompson House and the silk weavers' community form an oasis of calm amid the bustle of Bangkok. Here guests can immerse themselves in a bygone era, switch off, and forget the roar of engines and the skyscrapers of the big city.
"Hello! My name is Andrew and I am your personal travel specialist for Southeast Asia. I look forward to welcoming you here in Thailand, and I promise you that the smiles of the Thai people will bring a smile to your face too." With adventurous greetings from Bangkok, Andrew Greiner [email protected]
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